Author Topic: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL  (Read 12655 times)

Offline mizlplix

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Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« on: May 17, 2015, 08:23:36 AM »
Hey everyone:  No, I am not dead.  I just was not doing much but "Honey-Do"  work. (Boring)
___________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________

So here is my latest "money pit".

Way back in 1999, I bought a then new Ford F150 Lightning truck.  I had worked for Bondurant (and Ford) and saw the early test version
of what became the Gen 2 "Lightning".  365 HP, 440 Ft# torque, 0-60 mph in 5.7 seconds. (in a 4,760 # vehicle)  I have driven it for the
last 15 years  in pretty much stock condition.  I got bored and sold some other toys to give it a makeover.

So far, I have installed a pair of 60" traction "long bars",  (Fabricated aluminum) power steering tank, Radiator expansion tank and supercharger
intercooler expansion tank.  I have also replaced the tail gate cap (When I once used it for a saw table....oops....) Both headlight buckets, (the
old ones were age yellowed) 

I am contemplating a basic engine upgrade, so...

I have yet to install the new fuel system: Consisting of two 340 Lph Walbro fuel pumps (replacing the two factory 190 LPH ones),  complete
"return type" fuel lines (-10 supply and -6 return),  higher flow billet injector fuel rails, boost compensated fuel pressure regulator and a -10
billet inline fuel filter.  (All to support the new 60# injectors and nitrous system)

Also I have a completely new exhaust system to replace the Lightning's factory one.  I have new SS long-tube headers with 1-7/8"
primaries, 3" collectors, 3" high-flow cats, 3" flowmaster mufflers and 4" SS side exit pipes. 

I bought an SCT X4 programmer to be able to reset the fuel curve, timing curve, shift points, shift pressures and turn off the factory set top
RPM/speed limit. 

That necessitates a new AFR/Lambda gauge to watch out for not detonating my engine, while playing around.  It also incorporates an
additional feature....it has a settable "Watch dog".  If the AFR gets to a lean condition, it can dump the boost in order to save the engine.

I have also purchased: a larger aluminum main radiator, supercharger heat exchanger radiator and a conversion kit to lose the 18" 10 bladed
16 Lb fan and fan clutch assembly. (Replacing it with a single 18" puller and two 14" pusher electric fans.

This makes way for the engine work.  Carillo H beam rods, Manley coated supercharger pistons, Aluminum race bearings and billet CNC oil pump.
Trick-Flow SOHC heads and finally a big Whipple supercharger to replace the Eaton M112 the factory blessed me with.

Two brothers down in Texas have one of these iron block Modular Ford engines that puts out 3,100HP at the rear wheels........(LOL)

Mine will be somewhat short of that at 600HP (+ the 600HP nitrous).......a street-able truck too. 

I will keep you posted.......

Miz

1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2015, 03:54:40 AM »
OK,  So....where to start?
___________________________________________________________________________ ______________

So far I have the traction bars installed. The Lambda gauge (AFR), New clear shiny headlight buckets,
the tailgate cap, The L.E.D. driving lights and lastly:

I have started on the new fuel system. To that end, I have removed the bed. Removed the fuel tank
cap and started converting the cap to a dual exit style. (The previous factory set-up had two pumps
exiting through a single 3/8" tube.  Now I have two AN -6 exits and used the old 3/8" tube for my
new return-to-tank line. 


The old system had two 190 LPH pumps that both worked full-time.  The new system has two
340 LPH pumps,  one pump full-time and the second one is boost referenced. It comes in at
4# of pressure in the manifold.

That is important because the first stage of nitrous is a dry type. (Meaning it is nitrous only and no
fuel added.)  The extra fuel being added by the existing injectors.  (Being increased to 60# per hr,
up from the factory 48# per hr.)

I have also started removing some under-hood items and am getting prepared to remove the engine. 

The factory truck had 385 HP and 440 '/# of torque.  I could only use 1/2 throttle until 50 MPH then
roll on the rest or  all I would do was spin the tires.  With the new traction bars, I can do a full throttle
launch with minimal wheel spin.  It is clearly time for more HP!

I have a set of Manley forged blower pistons.  They have tool steel wrist pins and dual spirallock
retainers. The top compression ring has been moved down to .300 of an inch below the deck, to
give it a longer life span in that harsh environment.  It also has a 18cc dish and runs .125" down
in the hole at TDC to get me the needed 8.50:1 compression I need.

To go with them are a set of Carillo "H" beam connecting rods with 7/16" dia. ARP 2000 alloy bolts.
Supposedly good up to 2,500 HP.

I already have the forged steel crankshaft that is rated for 2000 HP+. 

I need to pour the block with concrete for 1.5" down in the skirt area of the water jacket to
stabilize the cylinders.  There is minimal cooling done down there, so no harm done.

I also have a beautiful set of fuel rails for the new injectors.  The factory only installed 5/16" rails. 
(good for about 500 HP) The new ones are 5/8" diameter (and good to 2000 HP) I have a new
fuel regulator. It is moved to after-the-injectors so the entire fuel supply does not run through it,
only the actual bypassed fuel. On the factory system, the entire right bank ran through the regulator,
the left bank was before it.  This caused the right bank to be slightly leaner than the left side.

The new regulator is boost referenced also to slowly increase the fuel pressure with boost, to keep
the Lambda point stable through the entire RPM range.

At some point when the motor is out, I will need to remove the old 5/16" return line and install the
new AN -10 fuel line.  (That is about 1/2" I.D.)  The system pressure will be between 38-55 PSI,
depending on the richness of the engine. 

The electronic programmer is set up to alter the air/fuel ratio.  It is set by RPM ranges. (1000-2000
and 2000 thru 3000...ETC.)  There are better ECU's out there, but I am required to keep the factory
one due to emissions requirements.           

More as I get it done.  Miz

Below is:
- the new look LED driving lights.
-The left traction bar rear mount. There is an anti-rotation block welded where it is not visible.
-The right traction bar front mount.
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline piotrsko

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2015, 06:39:04 AM »
Major amounts of fuel being pumped around in a circle.  Why such a low pressure?

I thought you didn't have emissions inspection there.  Obviously it won't pass visual for what I'm used to.

Ford used to sell blank ecu which passes the visual, but it sounds like they verify the settings some how.

It's NOT concrete.  Concrete has rocks.  It be stucco.  Any 'glass in it?

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2015, 10:36:51 AM »
In the early days (1959-1967) they used concrete and sand to fill drag race blocks.  Only the heads were water.  Then Moroso invented "Block fill" (tm). It is a plaster/acrylic compound of some sort that shrinks very little.  We old timers still refer to it as "concrete".  Block-fill is what I have. I just need to stabilize the lower part of the cylinder because Ford (In their wisdom) decided to not strut the inner cylinders.  They start cracking around 700HP.  Also I can not afford the good $4000 block from SVT.

Yes, Arizona has a visual inspection, tail pipe sniff and plug into the OBD 2 port and scan. So far I have only been plugged into the OBD and scanned.  My programmer reads the factory set up and keeps it in memory. It is a one button push to set it back.

The injectors and ECU are all predicated on 41 PSI from Ford. That is how we set the rich/lean, by messing with the fuel pressure to get a major change and the ECU does the fine tuning. I have a second stage regulator for the nitrous system which cuts it down to 35 PSI. To match the nitrous.

The fuel line is a -10 (5/8" I.D.)  The return is a -6 (3/8"). I have not only the engine/supercharger to feed, but a two stage nitrous system also.  But remember, only one pump is working until 4# of boost is made.  Then the second kicks on.  I have it pullied for about 14 PSI to start out.  Once I get that dialed in, ......well....I built the short block for 24 PSI.

When the first stage kicks on- (100 hp single nozzle) ,then  followed by the second stage (8 port fogger nozzles) which can be anything between 200HP-600HP.   (By setting the jets) 

The idea is to have it drive easy with no boost. It should act like a stocker. 

For now I have the P.I. heads that are getting ported, but after I save up a little, I'll get the Trick Flow heads that have been flowed/big valves/ ETC ($5000 for the pair). Ouch....

I once had a bad dream where I changed it over to 4 valve heads.....Everything worked out fine until I went to put the supercharger on and I have a 2V manifold so the ports do not match.  The most common 4V supercharged engines were the Cobra 4.6 version.  But those manifolds do not fit either because the 4.6 has a shorter deck than the 5.4 .  Some guy makes adaptor plates, but you pay him $1500 and wait about a year to get delivery.  Not a pleasant thought.  The only viable option is a lower manifold from a Shelby GT500 Mustang.  They go for $2500 and get snapped up fast the once or twice per year they show up on Ebay.  In many ways it is easier to buy a take out GT500 engine for $12000-$25000.  They freshen it up. ( factory 800 HP)   

My second problem is going to be the 4R100 transmission.  It is rated for 1000 Ft Lbs or torque.  But they have a weak second gear clutch pack.  So that will get worked on when it goes out.  (Ford got by that by programming the engine to shut off 4 cylinders every 1st to 2nd shift.....it makes a burbling sound)

There is a guy down in Texas that has a Lightning truck with 3,100 RWHP and runs in the high 6's.  But that is not a streetable truck anymore.

Well, so much for taking a break, back to work.  Later , Dean
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline piotrsko

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2015, 05:59:34 AM »
4r100 is what they put in the 7.3 diesel.  Worked really well. (Snicker)  the 7.3 forum has a couple of builders that seem to have fixes.  Heck my Z6 has issues at 600 lb ft.  Funny thing is the Chevy version goes to 625 and they interchange.

I'm old too.  I know about block fill.  We used expanding slurry for fixing structural holes but had to be careful about swaging the cylinder.  Some people are way too serious.

I'm running obd1 stuff and diesels which was 50 psi so I thought the pressure sounded low for injectors of the time.  Must be intake not cylinder spray.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2015, 08:31:14 AM »
Exactly.  If I am not mistaken, Ford's only direct injected gasoline engine is a couple of versions of the EcoTech.   The rest are port types.

My 4R100 is one of the early ones when they still made the second gear planet carriers of aluminum.  <Sigh>

I only need to pour the block up to the bottoms of the core plugs (1-1/2" or so) .  The 5.4 GT500 aluminum block is stronger than the iron one, go figure.
But it is $4000 for the new block and it comes with that plasma sprayed plating in the cylinders-no sleeves. (Like the Vega)
It is another $2000 to have the good flanged sleeves installed......So, for the block and heads I would have $10,000 invested.

I can buy a running GT500 engine with 30,000-80,000 miles for $10,000.

It seems like chasing my tail.

Dean
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline piotrsko

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2015, 06:13:28 AM »
Jeez, for this much money you could almost buy a 70's crate engine undressed.  Of course then nothing fits, but......

Plasma coated aluminum cylinders...... (shudder)  sounds harbor freight to me.    I remember #3 cylinder in Vegas.

Can't offer much help these "modular" engines are after my time.

Sounds like pick a part for a newer tranny.


Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2015, 02:22:01 PM »
Most Lightning owners are changing to a Warner 6 speed before they rebuild the 4R100.  Cost is the same. 
It is sad when the full-bore racing transmissions are cheaper than a street transmission.

I guess I will do like everyone else, wait until I break it, then fix it....

So, far:  I have the upper manifold, charge air cooler and supercharger off. The radiator drained and out. 

Today I got to finish the fuel hat. (The 8" round port cover to the fuel tank with the pumps mounted to it.)
The whole thing is back mounted in the tank and buttoned down.  I am ready to strip out the old fuel lines and run the new ones.

Now is a good time to do any re-plumb on the rear of the motor, as the top crap is out of the way.  The two fuel lines approach the engine there.
They split and go to each fuel rail.  I need to drill the "Y" fitting for a fuel pressure switch and gauge. 

Hey, what will clean baked oil off of aluminum?  Like a small cooler?  Say 21" X 8" X 6".  It has tiny internal fins too....
My charge air cooler is dirty. A new one is $700-$900.....
I wish I had an old carburetor vat.  They were cool.  But they quit selling them as they were hazardous.

Time to eat, See u later.

Dean

Below is the factory replacement (Recall) intercooler. The fabled 9 fin design.  Not many took advantage of the recall I guess.
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline piotrsko

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2015, 05:35:28 AM »
Depends on how big.  Couple runs through the lower rack in the dishwasher if the wife isn't home, pot cycle with extra soap,  easy off oven cleaner, methyline chloride paint stripper or even the "safer" paint strippers that water wash off.  Might get some discoloration in everything but the dishwasher.  Most engines shops would run it in their steam cabinet for maybe $25 while they do a block.

Seafoam engine oil additive cleaner in a bucket wait a while for it to work.

Finally rim wash acid based for they dirty aluminium rims, but that gets tricky.

With all that Power there there's no reason to launch in first.  heck,  if I am messing with a ricer, I launch my 250 in 3rd , cuz it takes too long to shift twice.  You probably want to be rolling anyways

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2015, 06:14:40 AM »
:Up>:

OK, that gives me something to think about.

Oven cleaner I have used to do engine compartments. 
I have heard of Seafoam but never used it.
Paint stripper.......ok

I will try them in that order today.

THx Dean
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2015, 06:52:48 AM »
To add some more:
___________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________

I am currently working on the fuel system.  I have mounted the two new 340LPH pumps onto the hat and bolted it back in the tank. 
It has a dedicated -6AN line for each pump (instead of a single 3/8" line for two 190LPH pumps factory).

The two -6 lines go out to the frame rail where they attach to a combiner block and exit in a single -10AN line.
The -10 line goes forward another foot and has a billet -10/-10 inline high pressure filter designed for a methanol
dragster.  Then it exits the filter in a sweeping 90 Deg. hard line before going back to the -10 braided hose line.

There is a factory bracket there to arch the fuel supply and return over the left side exhaust pipes and turns
forwards and runs along the transmission centerline area, attached to the flooring.  It winds up on the back
of the engine where it goes into another fuel block where it splits into two -6AN lines again. They go one each
to the back of the fuel rails.

The engine is partly disassembled.  I have removed the Eaton M112 Supercharger as well as the mid plate and intercooler.
A cardboard cover is in place and I am starting to prepare the engine for removal and mounting to a stand.


I still have this transmission deli-ma.  What to eventually do to the 4R100......

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2015, 12:51:56 AM »
Today's progress:
___________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________

Today I worked on the supercharger cooling system. 

I bought a larger heat exchanger to mount under the front bumper to lower the
supercharger intercooler temperatures.  It is made by AFCO, as is my radiator
surge tank, intercooler surge tank and power steering pump tank.

It has a shroud and two electric fans, (where the stocker does not).
It is also two row (where the stocker is a single).
It is a two-pass style, the top half flows right to left and the lower flows left to right.
(The stocker is a single pass like standard crossflow radiators).

Other than being like 5 Lbs of poop in an 3 Lb bag, it went well.

Later, Miz

Below is:
-The plywood disk.
-The finished product, saving $800 in the process.
(Note: the shroud was centered on the water pump, My fan is now centered on the core.
Hopefully giving a straighter air column.)
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline piotrsko

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2015, 06:33:18 AM »
You are really going to run the fuel over the exhaust?  In Arizona?

I'd run spray nozzles on the intercooler instead of fans.

Why not score a C 6 out of a yard?  I personally have beat the craps out of those.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2015, 02:45:52 PM »
The exhaust system in a Lightning has it's own shielding.  An SS tunnel with glass mat insulation on both sides.
Two tunnels from the back of the engine at the manifold to the rear transmission mount crossmember.
Otherwise the transmission, electrical and all fluid piping would burn n boil at that area.
I am just following the Ford routing.  Over the exhaust/tunnel.


Yah, a lot of the pure drag race guys use a spray bar between rounds to cool the intercooler.
They use a 50/50 water-methanol mix. (Which gets sprayed into the intake above the blower
to cool the charge air during the runs.)  The rest use frigid nitrous to cool the intake charge air.

A 4R100 is just a C6 with a 4th gear and lock up converter.  (Per a Ford ad.)
The weakness in the C46 and 4R100 is the same...The second gear clutch pack.
Everything else can be beefed up, but that one weakness remains.

Ford designed the Lightning to reduce torque during all shifts by rotational
cutting of injectors of four cylinders during the micro-second of a shift and
increasing the line pressure only changes the speed of the shift.

Bandaids all.  A powerglide has 3 to 6 clutches.  An aftermarket hub and
shell can hold up to ten. No room in a 4R100 to do that. 

Here is a quote from SVT from one of the monthly things they send me:

 "SVT raided the Ford parts bin for a tranny which would take the immense torque of the blown 5.4.  The equally massive 4R100 from the diesel Super Duty is the only one which would work--and just barely.  The Lightning engine is rated at 450 lbs. ft. of torque at the crankshaft.  The 4R100 is rated at 1,000 lbs. ft.  But the torque converter has a 2X multiplication factor.  So the 4R100's capacity is 90% used up with a stock engine.  It should be no surprise that transmission failures are common with modified Lightnings. "

"Note that tranny fluid, like engine oil, can be overcooled -- if the fluid is too cool, it does not properly lubricate the engine.  To prevent this from happening, any additional coolers should be installed before the radiator cooler.  One of the reasons that OEMs integrate tranny coolers into the radiator is to allow the water to warm up the tranny fluid, bringing it to normal operating temps quicker."

I get some interesting stuff from SVT sometimes.

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline piotrsko

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Re: Rebuilding my pickup truck...LOL
« Reply #14 on: June 01, 2015, 05:55:22 AM »
Ok that explains the failure rate in the diesel 250.

Sounds to me that that tranny's days are numbered.

That's why I still favor handshakers.  Can you say 19 spline 853  with the large pilot bushing?

New question:  how is this going to get transmitted to the ground?  Or are tires considered to be weekend consumables?