Author Topic: Re: Building the Dyno  (Read 10609 times)

Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« on: April 06, 2013, 07:47:50 PM »
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                            This is how its gona work:

1-Run the Auto-run portion of the optimization routine on a new rewind.  (in torque mode)

2-Run the stalled rotor torque optimization portion of the routine. (in torque mode)

3-Test rpm for maximum rpm. (In torque mode)

4-Perform the torque/current optimization test pulls. (done in speed mode)

There will be a pot (throttle) hooked up to the controller that will set the rpm and increase rpm range when doing the pulls. Set rpm in 500 increments (speed mode) then load the motor till the RPM starts to drop (speed mode applies current to try and keep the "set" RPM constant).  Then read torque and current. (Horsepower is just a simple math equation from those values.)

HP= torque x speed divide by 5252


By performing these tests, I can get RPM, current, ft/lbs torque over the RPM range while optimizing the motor.

Here is some pics on my dyno.

Click on pic for bigger image...
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2013, 07:31:59 AM »
This is what I will use for the rpm.
20 bucks for the pickup and 20 bucks for gauge.

Testing it on the lathe.
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2013, 05:26:30 AM »
Here is pics on the meter and shunt for the Dyno.

600 amp shunt.

Meter.
Input(default): AC/ DC 5A,1A,100mA,75mV*
Display: 4 digit red LED display
Isolated power supply
Frequency response: 0-400Hz
Overload: "EEEE"
Filtration: 0,1,2,3
Dual relays output for controls (250V,3A)
Power: DC9V~30V ( 2Watt)
Size: 79mm * 43mm * 58mm
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2013, 11:38:29 AM »
Making the frame, mount.

The plate sticking up will be the torque arm, it will be facing down
into the box.
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2013, 06:31:26 PM »
Torque sensor.

I made this cylinder 1 sq inch it will be what the torque arm will push on.It will be filled with oil.

I put a psi gauge in it to check it (stood on it) and it showed my weight,
about 210 lbs. I had to weld a bolt on a small plate to stand on it.

The transducer is a pressure transducer. Need to find a meter (ebay)

Found a good meter for the torque transducer. Pricey 300 bucks.
http://electronumerics.com/micro/micro_loadcell.htm
See pic below....
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2013, 06:15:33 PM »
My air powered master cylinder.

I found this air operated airvalve to control the brake chamber.
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2013, 02:53:52 PM »
This is what I have so far on the dyno.
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2013, 12:56:54 PM »
Making my lovejoy couplers.

Broaching the keyways are next.
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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2013, 06:51:12 AM »
Had to build a shop press, this was all scrap steel laying on the floor, so I could broach (keyway) my lovejoy couplers and the drive hub for the brake rotor. This is a porta power 4 ton ram and a 5 ton air over hydraulic pump.

Here is pics on my web site.
http://ivanbennett.com/shoppress.html


<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/NfKgTYtLq-g" target="_blank" class="new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/NfKgTYtLq-g</a>
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2013, 03:09:15 PM »
This is what I got so far.

Click on pic for bigger image.
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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2013, 11:25:05 AM »
I have been working on the control panel, still have to install the pot and the air valve. This box was an old apu that I had on my computers.
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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2013, 12:54:57 PM »
I have been working on mounting the controller, contactor and the 600 amp shunt, the controller has stand offs on the box and a four inch fan behind the controller, sucking air from the box on to the back of the controller. There is a pretty good breeze the flows from the back of the controller.
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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2013, 06:12:19 PM »
After testing my homemade load cell (oil pressure transducer) with the torque wrench I did not like the accuracy.  so I found this (real load cell 4 wire) for 95 bucks. This will match up to my meter perfectly, 10v Excitation 4 wire.

Specifications:
250 pound load cell
Sensitivity =   3.0 +/- 0.003m V/V
Total error =   +/- 0.03%FS
Creep (30 min.) =   +/- 0.03%FS
Zero Balance =   +/- 1% FS
TCO =   +/- 0.03%FS/10 degrees C
TC Span =   +/-0.03%FS/10 degrees C
Input Impedance =   400+/-20ohms
Output Impedance =   352+/-3ohms
Insulation Impedance =   >/-5000Mohms
Temp Range, operating =   minus 30 to +70 degrees C
Max safe overload =   120%FS
Ultimate overload =   150%FS
Excitation recommended =   10-12V DC
Excitation maximum =   15V DC
Protection Class =   IP65
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2013, 05:37:18 PM »
Here is a pick of the new load cell installation.
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Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #14 on: June 02, 2013, 05:40:17 PM »
I am checking the amp meter, ran a battery charger through the shunt and a 12 volt battery.

RPM  took my 1/2 drill and spun up the dyno to check rpm..
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