Author Topic: Re: Building the Dyno  (Read 10607 times)

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #15 on: June 02, 2013, 08:11:47 PM »
It is looking good!

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline few2many

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #16 on: June 03, 2013, 04:34:14 PM »
I'm curious as to how you are going to run the tests. Will you be spinning the motor to full speed, then applying the brakes to see the torque vs rpm as the motor slows or stalls? Or will you be starting it with varying loads? Or both?

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #17 on: June 03, 2013, 04:52:06 PM »
The first test is the optimization auto run portion.  You merely set the F/W settings to 6000RPM , 0% and 0% (so you have no field weakening at all,) and let the controller do it's thing with no braking.
The controller applies both current and dynamic loading to measure the saturation and set up the current/voltage algorythm for that exact stator and winding.

Second test: lock the brake rotor.  Apply full power and read torque. Set the slip number up or down to increase the stalled torque to it's maximum. (for that motor)

Third test: Accelerate the motor with a medium load. It will go up smoothly to a point then slow and creep up slowly.  The point where it slowed is where you set your F/W base speed.

Fourth test: you start doing loaded runs while working the F/W % and weakening number until you get top RPM and even torque up through the RPM range.

Fifth test:  you perform a 40MPH cruise test at a medium load to check the cruise current.(current can be adjusted to a small degree with the F/W settings)

SO, One pull is free running, one pull is against a locked rotor.  The rest are done with a large load applied, Then full throttle applied and releasing the brake slowly to achieve the RPM you are testing for.(reading torque)

OR Ivan might have his own testing regimen. (The above is only a guess from my hundreds of car testing pulls and the Curtis manual.(

miz 
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #18 on: June 04, 2013, 04:04:00 PM »
Finished up all the controller wiring, added brake fluid, all that is left now
is build some battery racks along the wall and run some big cable.
:co<:  If you bought just one or two extra can goods a week and donated to a food bank   Nobody would go hungry.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #19 on: June 04, 2013, 04:27:04 PM »
Awesome!

That is a really nice looking unit. 

I can't wait to see a video of the first motor running on it.

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #20 on: June 05, 2013, 06:08:03 PM »
I got the battery rack done today and 9 batts on the bottom there will be 9 more on top (6 volt Batts)
:co<:  If you bought just one or two extra can goods a week and donated to a food bank   Nobody would go hungry.

Offline HighHopes

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #21 on: June 06, 2013, 07:42:09 PM »
that's just awesome  :)

Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #22 on: July 03, 2013, 03:04:13 AM »
Miz is coming by today with the other 9 batts. We are going to get the dyno set up and maybe test run the AC-50..

More later.
:co<:  If you bought just one or two extra can goods a week and donated to a food bank   Nobody would go hungry.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #23 on: July 03, 2013, 04:44:40 AM »
Well, I'm up, the truck is loaded and I am setting out for Tucson. 

I expect a very long day. 

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline few2many

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #24 on: July 03, 2013, 05:49:06 AM »
If you guys are testing today, I'd love yo stop by and check it out!
Have you guys thought about setting up and optimizing the combo with 96-108 volts, then running the higher ~120 volts?

Offline mizlplix

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #25 on: July 04, 2013, 06:21:19 AM »
We are running a baseline 96 volt system, as it is what the controller is set up for. (102 volts max.)
No plans to increase voltage at this time as it requires one of the new controllers.$$$$$$$$$


We got the batteries installed in the rack and about half of the cables installed. 
There is a glitch with the new (expensive) gauge for the torque meter (load cell), so we are
 out of business for a time to send it back for repairs. (It was just back there for updates)......GRRRRRRR!

I am advocating that Ivan rewind my motor so I can get it back into the car.

He can wind it, without any varnish, extend the leads outside the case and take it to The Motor shop.
Their test stand will do 30/60/90 volts at 60 cycles.  It will tell us if it will even start, amp draw and RPM..
all at a 60 cycle and maybe 60 volt range.

If it passes those tests, it can have the permanent ends installed, varnished and I can "test" it in the car like always.

(This is necessary because if we mess up on anything and have to change the wiring back, we can at this point,
saving about $350 worth of copper wire.)

I am really impatient to try it as it uses a previously untried variation- changing the phase spacing.

I have returned to Queen Creek to return work on the Segway.

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #26 on: July 07, 2013, 07:19:50 AM »
Thanks to Allan Bullock (cruisin) it will be another month before I get the dyno done. I need to send the controller to HPEV to get it reprogrammed, from a golf cart.. He new I was going to use this controller for my s-10 project when I bought it from him and never said a dam thing. The contactor voltage was set for 100% batt voltage even after turning it down, so burnt out the contactor 125 bucks.
:co<:  If you bought just one or two extra can goods a week and donated to a food bank   Nobody would go hungry.

Offline few2many

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #27 on: July 07, 2013, 08:14:59 AM »
Hey Ivan, curious how long your torque arm is? From brake rotor center, to the pivot point that connects to theload cell.

Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #28 on: July 07, 2013, 08:56:01 AM »
Hey Ivan, curious how long your torque arm is? From brake rotor center, to the pivot point that connects to theload cell.

Hey Few,

1 foot  for foot lbs, makes life easy..

 I better get back to winding Mizs motor,
he keeps yelling at me.
:co<:  If you bought just one or two extra can goods a week and donated to a food bank   Nobody would go hungry.

Offline Ivan

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Re: Building the Dyno
« Reply #29 on: October 13, 2013, 07:07:50 PM »
Well, finally got the dyno running today. All seems to be working.

Miz is coming by tuesday to run the ac-50.

More to come.
:co<:  If you bought just one or two extra can goods a week and donated to a food bank   Nobody would go hungry.