Author Topic: Our Test Mule  (Read 53525 times)

Offline mizlplix

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Our Test Mule
« on: December 11, 2012, 12:54:41 AM »
                                                           Our Test "Mule"
___________________________________________________________________________ ____________



When doing any sort of development work, it is necessary to
have a test vehicle.  This is the one my work (study) group uses.

It is a 1930 Ford Model A Speedster. It weighs 1,900Lb. (862Kg).  Being an open style vehicle makes it wonderful to work on.

It is showed in this pic using an HPEV AC50 with a manual shift, direct coupled, powerglide with no torque converter.

This power train has been removed and the car is in the shop awaiting a freshly rewound 12" AC motor, which will be installed in a direct drive mode, with only an "electric" forward & reverse, by toggle switch.

Test results and pictures will be posted.  Keep watching.

miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Our test mule.
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2012, 01:16:26 AM »
                                                   New Motor
___________________________________________________________________________ ____________


As stated above, my car is getting a face-lift by way of a new motor.

If you missed it, here is the old build thread:

Click Here, link to Diy Electric Car

It was getting long and hard to read, as well as getting lost because
 of the fast posting rate on that EV site.  I wanted a "home" so  it could grow slowly without being too hard to find.

My car build will be continuing here in detail.

Miz   
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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The emergency brake lever.
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2012, 08:22:11 PM »
One of the things about going direct drive is that you lose the parking sector in the transmission.

So, I am hooking up my left rear parking brake cable to a custom fabricated lever mounted to the left side of the car.  It is outside the body like an old dirt track racer.

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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The new motor.
« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2012, 05:05:19 PM »
                                                       The new Motor
___________________________________________________________________________ ____________

It was a 20HP, 230/480, 4 pole, 1850 RPM pump motor. 

It ran until the bearings went south and it refused to start one day.  The shop wanted too long to rebuild it, so the owner bought a new one.  We bought the core for $100.   

It is all aluminum, case and end bells.  Weight 220 Lbs. 

We have about $300 in wire and insulation.  We bought a new encoder for $140, two bearings for another $150 and about $35 for the therm resistor.

Ivan rewound it by hand (18 ga wire, 4 pole, 12 in hand two turns for 24 strand motor leads, delta connect no pole connections)

It ran on the test bench at: 60 VAC,  60 HZ, 65 Amps,  1750 RPM. 

Except for some clean  up and polyurethane clearcoat,  it seems road ready. 

Maybe we can run the Curtis optimization routine on it this weekend.

Miz

TOTAL:  $625 (Plus a pound of Ivan's skin and a blister on the pointer finger).
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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The new motor.
« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2012, 05:20:04 PM »

YIKES!   This Behemoth is three times bigger than the one we took out.  The theory is that using the same weight car, same controller, same pack and on the same roads, the motor with the larger stator diameter and length will utilize the current more efficiently.  The AC50 was a little soft in torque from 0-3,000 RPM, then really took off until about 5,500 RPM where it starting to taper off and was about all in at 7,000 RPM.  The gearing was optimized for 2 transmission speeds. The car would do 129 MPH.....(Which we really didn't need).

The car did 0-60 MPH in 10.5 seconds using both gears, and 12.1 seconds using high gear only.

Our hope is that now with the big motor it will better the 12.1 second time and possibly the 10.5 time.  This is because the new 12" stator will give us back our 0-3,000 RPM torque at the cost of our top speed.  It will now have an estimated 70MPH top speed. (Perfect for an in town car.) 

A satisfactory direct drive vehicle needs to be light weight and geared to absolute perfection in order to take advantage of all of that low RPM torque.  (1,900 Lbs, 6.14 rear gears, 32" diameter tires and an estimated 4,800 RPM=74 MPH)   

Mizlplix

1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2013, 06:06:33 PM »
Greetings to all:

After a quick test run up and doing the first third part of the controller optimization routine, It looks like it is a runner!

It accelerates in RPMs really fast.  I was wondering about the 8" rotor diameter making it a little slow....<NOT>




The last two thirds of the procedure are conducted with the motor in the car and driveable.

So, You know where to find me for the foreseeable future.

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #6 on: January 05, 2013, 05:57:14 AM »
_______________________________________________________________

From here on out I will be adding content on a daily basis until the car
 is back up and running. 

TODAY:  I need to get the motor mocked up in the chassis and some motor
 mounts cludged together.  After that, It can come apart to have the finishing
 touches done to the motor.  The motor comes apart.

The rotor goes to the fab area so I can case harden the newly cut splines.   

The end bells go outdoors to have the old paint stripped off so they can get
 a brushed finish like the body and all the fins will get polished on the tips to
dress it up a little.  Following that, all the aluminum gets a clear polyurethane
coating prior to assembly.

The four long case bolts will get painted dark green like the body.

The encoder end bell gets two 1/4" NC holes drilled and tapped for the
 Rechargecar RPM sensor.

The encoder end shaft on the rotor gets drilled out to 3/8" I.D. for a 1"
 depth for the plastic insert that will drive my speedometer sensor.

The motor mounts get painted splattered silver like the chassis, then reassembly will begin.

I can't wait....

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2013, 02:51:19 PM »
___________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________
                Todays progress

The front crossmember is made and bolted in.  It is bolted to the old frame mounts and looks original.  The rear crossmember looks just like it.  It goes back where that small bracket is on the frame rail under the firewall.  They both will be connected with two parallel motor mounting rails.  The whole unit will be a bolt in and look like it was designed that way. 
Notice where the driveshaft ends at.


The end bells are proving to be difficult to clean.  I am on the 4th application of paint stripper.
Tomorrow I get mean.


The motor body is pretty good after it was baked and Ivan wire wheeled it,
 just some touch up to do.



The case hardening on the splines went well.   After removing the bearing and wrapping a wet cloth around the shaft, I used a #2 Rosebud heating tip to bring the temperature up quickly before sprinkling the compound on.
After 5 minutes and the bubbling stopped, it was OK to cool with water.  A file just slides off and the corner of the file barely makes a shiny nick.  Just right .  After a little clean up and some never-sieze it will be ready for installation.

I can almost hear it run.............

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2013, 05:02:47 AM »
TODAY:

I complete the motor cradle and get it removed to get
painted. 

I also get the motor all cleaned up and assembled so I
can give it some Polyurethane clearcoat. 

Some of the motor control wiring needs rerouted from
the left side to the right side of the frame to suit the
new motor.

Wish me luck...Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline HighHopes

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2013, 09:02:56 PM »
is this even a challenge for you!?   ;P

i am in awe of your build speed, keep it up!

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2013, 06:12:29 AM »
The actual fab is quite simple.  You just have to take time
 and make everything fit.

Thinking it up was a little harder.  The designing phase is
 always more trying for me.  I guess that is because it needs
 to look just right and not a bunch of scrap stuck onto the car.

That is the one thing it took me years to learn.......
From <functional but ugly> to <slow but nice>.  It is an
acquired attitude.

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #11 on: January 12, 2013, 02:52:36 PM »
___________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________
                    Todays Progress

The motor mounting cradle is finished and bolted in.






The end bells proved to be stubborn so I just primed and painted them.
 This is just an idea what it will look like.

More tomorrow.

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #12 on: January 13, 2013, 04:19:28 PM »
WELL-WELL-WELL, Here we have another Today, so I need another name....OK, hows this:
___________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________ 
            I can almost hear it run!


Sunday was somewhat productive.  I got the motor center case cleaned and it assembled....

OK-OK, the picture is crappy, live with it.   The motor is just set in so I can align it with the driveshaft, then drill the holes....tomorrow.



The encoder end shaft has (of coarse) the encoder,, the RPM sensor for my tach and the end of it has an insert to drive the generator for my Autometer speedo.
 
I drilled a 5/16" hole-1" deep and then cut off the end of the powerglide output gear (Plastic) and drove it into the shaft.  It has the correct square hole for the drive cable.  The sensor will be mounted to the aluminum end cap (not shown).

More Monday evening....Yahoo!

Miz
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline mizlplix

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #13 on: January 14, 2013, 02:17:36 PM »
___________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________
                                  Mondays progress

I got the motor mounted, driveshaft in, encoder and RPM sensors mounted. 

The base and stand offs were made by me.  The mount bracket was supplied
 by Rechargecar with their kit.  I can not say enough how easy this sensor kit was to
 install and adapt to my motor.  I used a 4 screw ring to simulate a V8 engine
 signal.  Most all tachs work with it and all will with some minor wiring changes
 to the sensor harness.

Later EDITT: I have the Rechargecar sensor hooked up to my Autometer speedo
 and it works nicely, I can run both off of one sensor and eliminate the second sensor...Yah!



The motor sits there like it belongs.  I have Kevlar sleeving over the motor leads
 to clean it up a little.  My motor electrics run down the right side of the motor this
 time around.

This is a good end-on view.


This is kinda how it looks from the side, but I need to get the radiator and shell
 on as they give it a whole different look.


Tomorrow will get the rest together.  Although the car drives at this point,
 the last 2/3rds of the controller optimization routine needs to be done. 
Then I can get a 0-60 MPH time and a steady 40 MPH cruise amp draw
value to compare with the AC50/powerglide I just removed.   

 Miz
 
1930 Ford Speedster, AC50, full manual powerglide, 6.14gears, 38-130AH CALBs.

Offline few2many

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Re: copper rotors
« Reply #14 on: January 14, 2013, 07:35:24 PM »
Fun coincidence, driving through town for work, I see this awesome little car pulling out of the drive!